One thousand feet above the shimmering South Pacific, the controls of our seaplane were placed in my hands. I was the pilot for fifteen minutes as our private aircraft soared over translucent turquoise waters around the Yasawa Islands.
As the half-moon shaped beach of Turtle Island came into view, I handed back the controls to the professional pilot for our descent and landing. In one final moment of exhilaration, the seaplane skimmed the surface of the ocean and slowed to a halt: we had arrived, and in style.
The staff of Turtle Island was waiting on the beach to 'welcome us home' by cheering the traditional greeting, 'Bula'! Delivered with more punch than 'Aloha' this Fijian greeting is just one example of the local spirit. Before guests even exit the plane the first ritual begins: women are whisked to the beach in the arms of Fijian warriors. Safely ashore, Michael and I raised a guava cocktail to a different type of vacation.
Our trip to Fiji would be both private and immersed in local culture, both adventurous and relaxing, and most importantly, allow us to reconnect with each other and the wonders of nature.Turtle Island is one of over 300 islands that make up the South Pacific nation of Fiji. Many visitors travel to the islands for peaceful lagoons, excellent scuba diving, and the exotic location – but are surprised by the spirit of the people. A warmth that is uncommon in the West and service with a wide, genuine smile struck me time and time again during my trip. Turtle Island conveyed that traditional ceremonies of song and dance, authentic cuisine, and spirituality are just as important to the Fijian experience as the powdery white-sand beaches.
Turtle is a small island with a big reputation for romance. It was the setting for the Hollywood movie, 'The Blue Lagoon' starring Brooke Shields and Christopher Atkins -- a story of two young people shipwrecked alone on an enchanting tropical island. They thrive on the abundance of the jungle and lagoon, swim nude over coral reefs, and frolic under the cathedral of palm trees. The warm breezes, tropic moon, and silky sand draw them to fall in love.American entrepreneur Richard Evanson purchased Turtle Island in 1972 and infused this Fijian heart and soul into his resort. Since receiving his first guests in 1980, Richard has welcomed everyone from the most famous pop stars to an American Presidential candidate to experience the magic of Turtle Island. Both Britney Spears and Jessica Simpson honeymooned here. The resort has 14 bures, or bungalows, to accommodate 14 couples. When asked why Turtle Island only accommodates 14 couples, Richard replies, "because there are only 14 beaches." The allure of Turtle Island begins with a private beach for each couple.
The 500 acres provide hiking trails, cozy hammocks, and bursts of color with tropical flowers. We slipped into the routine of Turtle Island easily: during the day we read under the shade of a palm tree or sipped a frozen drink after a swim. Fragrant hibiscus was placed in our bure each morning and we lazily moved from one pleasure to the next: our private in-room Jacuzzi, a drink of fresh coconut milk, falling asleep on the day bed, and the pop of a champagne cork. It is no surprise that 70% of guests at Turtle are celebrating their honeymoon or wedding anniversary.Pleasures continued in the evening when the 14 couples dined together at one long table on the beach. Ingredients from the resort's own garden were the perfect complement to fresh caught fish, lobster, and a crisp Australian Riesling. After our feast, the Kava ceremony began. Six nights a week at Turtle Island this Fijian tradition brings guests together seated around a ceremonial mat. We removed our shoes and sat-cross legged as the kava was prepared. The root of a pepper plant is ground into a powder, and then mixed with water. Everyone is given a small bowl, and the narcotic drink leaves a tingling sensation in your mouth.
Turtle Island is focused on delivering the true essence of Fiji, and according to Richard, that means seeing the island at sunrise. The next morning we woke before dawn for a horseback ride on the beach. After a wake-up call from our bure mama, or private assistant (who helps arrange activities, picnics, and private dining), we were trotting along the water's edge on horseback. Moonlight was glowing on the dark ocean as we began our ride. Soon enough, orange and yellow light began to flicker from the horizon. The romance of the sunrise and witnessing Fiji come to life was complete by a private breakfast on the beach.After coffee and fresh fruit we boarded a boat for a deep sea fishing expedition. We saw a spectrum of shades of blue as the boat sped out to deep waters. Sustainability is important to Richard, and as a result, anything caught aboard can be cooked at the resort. After a couple small catches, our boat captain dropped us at Devil's Beach, one of Turtle's private beaches. The sand and surf was ours alone to enjoy. A hammock for two, picnic under a palm tree, and chance for a private skinny dip made fantasies of Fiji a blissful reality.
Beyond intimacy and romance, one of the most memorable elements of Turtle Island is the culture. One evening per week, guests gather for a traditional Meke ceremony, featuring a Fijian form of underground cooking called Lovo. Beef, lamb, and organic vegetables from the garden are slow-cooked in parcels underground. For a more intimate dining experience, just ask your bure mama to arrange a private dinner. Dine by candlelight under the stars on the beach or on a pontoon floating on the lagoon.
The fascinating Fijian culture extends beyond ceremonies as well. The friendly staff (who mostly come from three local villages) are happy to share details about their culture. Chatting to my bure mama I learned that a man presents a whale's tooth (called 'tabua') to a woman as a marriage proposal. Just like in western culture, the bigger the tabua the better! Our bure mama was always in reach, as two-way radios made it simple to request a tropical cocktail. I loved eating salads each afternoon that had been picked from the 10-acre organic garden that very morning and lobster that had been caught by local fishermen.
Beyond Turtle Island, visitors can continue to explore the heritage and beauty of Fiji. We took a trip to the Garden of the Sleeping Giant, the largest private collection of orchids in the world. A variety of palms, bamboo, and flowers were intricately shaped and brightly colored. A private driver from 'Exclusively Fiji' brought us to the main market square in Nadi, an impressive Hindu temple, and recommended a restaurant that served delicious yellow fin sashimi. In Fiji, you can see as much or as little as you please.As the 'soft coral capital' Fiji has some of the best scuba and snorkeling in the world. The Jean-Michel Cousteau Fiji Islands Resort is located near some of Fiji's best reefs. This resort arranges daily guided snorkeling trips and adventurous travelers can gain a scuba certification. Experienced divers can take the plunge at top-rated locations including Dreamhouse for large fish and sharks, Nsonisoni Pass for colorful coral as far as the eye can see, and Namena Island, to dive at one of the top 10 sites in the world. Fiji is not only paradise for honeymooners, but for thrill-seeking couples and families too.
It won't take long after arrival before you adjust to 'Fiji Time' – more of a motto than a time zone. Hours passing became irrelevant during our stay. Indulgences were simple, including curling up with a good book on a swaying hammock or easing into an afternoon nap on the cozy daybed. Listening to waves crashing on the beach during a 4-handed Lomi Lomi massage, I decided that four hands are certainly better than two. All pleasures are just a touch sweeter in Fiji.